![]() The non-drive side cup is right-hand threaded, so it tightens normally. Insert the proper tube spacer for the width of your BB shell. The drive side cup has a line around it and is left-hand (reverse) threaded. If you really want to do it right, because you hate hearing your BB creaking, then you should get some teflon tape from the hardware store and wrap the threads of the cups. Ideally, you should clean the threads of the frame, and then give them a light coating of grease. Installing a Euro (English/ISO) BB is pretty simple.You will need a 36mm headset wrench. Do not hit the bearings in the center race- hit the outside edges, starting at the top and working your way around the edges, with the intent of pushing the bearing in as evenly as possible. ![]() Do not hit the bearings as hard as you can. If you don’t have access to a bearing press and the vice or C-clamp isn’t working for you, you can get a rubber or wooden mallet and tap the bearings in place. Flip the frame over, insert the gold tube spacer, and then the other bearing.Using a bearing press: lay the frame flat so the BB is under the press, and place the bearing atop the shell, bring the press down, keeping the frame as square to the table as possible.You might need a friend to help support the frame. In all scenarios, you should first spread a bit of grease on the BB shell where the bearings will sit. You can do it that way, but the bearings can get damaged, your frame can get damaged, and you really should avoid using a hammer on your bike as much as possible, it’s just not the right tool for the job in most cases. The last method is to get a 2×4 and a hammer and bash the bearings into place. You can even use your cranks, if you already have one crank arm installed on the BB spindle. Manufacturers tried to offer "double row" bearing systems (i.e.If you don’t have a bench vice, you can get C-clamps from a hardware store for less than $20 and use them with the wood squares. When you try and manufacture a bottom bracket to fit inside the Euro shell, and support the 19mm-22mm axle, you simply don't have enough space left for cartridge bearings of sufficient depth to withstand the high stresses, strains and impact loads of aggressive riding Ideally you want the largest possible diameter crank axle on a crankset for strength and rigidity - ideally around 19-22mm The problem with the Euro shell is the limited diameter, it was never designed for aggressive riding on mountain bikes, its a leftover from the world of road bikes! I cant see how having internal bearings is any weaker than having external bearings? To summarize: just about any crankset will work on your frame, provided you don't cock the numbers up too badly (by getting, say, an 83x122.5mm Square-taper BB for a set of Shimano Dura-Ace cranks - though if you do manage to do that, I have a cookie reserved for that level of stupidity) I'm assuming you're planning on single speeding your Traffic? Just grab a 113mm BB and be done with it. However, anything that uses an internal-bearing BB (any ISIS, square-taper, Octa-Link, or BMX style cranksets) will require you to pay attention to the spindle length. If you go with a crankset that uses an external bearing BB (like a shimano, or Race Face), then you don't have to worry about it, as it's sort of one-size-fits-all. ![]() If I'm not mistaken, your NS uses a 68mm shell, which means you'll be able to use either a 68mm specific BB, or a 73mm BB (and just use five mm worth of spacers, as instructed by the BB's manual).Īs far as spindle length (that pesky second number) goes, it will depend upon your frame, rear hub, and crankset. The 19 and 22mm measurements you keep referring to are diameters, not lengths (a 22mm wide bottom bracket would be absolutely tiny! about the width of one of your crank arms!).Įuro BB's have their own fun standard as far as sizing goes, and most will follow the typical 68/73mm shell size (read: they'll fit either 68 or 73mm wide bottom bracket shells), and be between 108mm and 133mm in spindle width (113mm is the most common size used in the industry).
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